Care Sheet: Leopard Gecko...
King snakes and Milk snakes are one of the most popular snakes hobbyists keep. The ‘Genus Lampropeltis’ originate in the Unites States (North and South America). They are known to be one of the easiest snake species to keep in captivity as they do not have venom and are a good handling snake.These snakes come in many colours and patterns and can potentially grow to three to five feet long, with a life span of around 15 to 20 years.
Housing
King snakes and Milk snakes come in a variety of sizes, so choose the size of the vivarium to suit the respective snake.
Young hatchling snakes do best in a small vivarium at first. Progressing in size as the snake grows. If unsure, ask the breeder. Who will always be happy to advice you to the correct sizes.
In the vivarium you will also need a hide box, a water dish, and a suitable substrate/bedding, make sure your chosen substrate is non-toxic to your snake, see substrate section. Lastly it is important you maintain a steady temperature in the vivarium
Hide Box
Hide boxes give your snake security. Shop bought hides, which come in a variety of shapes and sizes are easy to keep clean. I recommend you have two hides in your vivarium. One over the heat mate and one on the cool side of the vivarium is best.
Water Dish
King/Milk snakes must have access to fresh clean water. Which should always be available in a suitable size dish. Corn Snakes not only drink the water, but they like to soak themselves when they shed their skin.
Substrate/Bedding
For the base of the vivarium you can use a range of different substrates. Such as newspaper, paper towels, cage mats or beech wood chips.
It is important that great care is taken when choosing a suitable substrate. Using an unsuitable substrate can cause many problems, sometimes resulting to the death of your snakes.
Temperature/Heating
Snakes do best with a temperature gradient, a warm end and a cooler end. The temperature at the warm end should be kept between 80°F and 85°F, and the cool end between 70°F and 75°F. The easiest way to achieve this is to use a heat mat at one end of the vivarium. For best control of the temperature, use a thermostat. A thermostat placed on the substrate will tell you what temperature your snake is experiencing.
Feeding
When feeding your King/Milk Snake use only a good quality rodent of the correct size. Hatchlings start on pinkies, eventually taking an adult mouse when fully grown. I recommend the use of frozen rodents, NOT live. To defrost the mice I use warm not hot water.
Rough defrosting times:
Pinkies approximately 10 minutes
Fuzzies approximately 10-12 minutes
Small approximately 12-15 minutes
Medium approximately 15-20 minutes
Adults approximately 20-30 minutes
After defrosting re-warm the water to replicate the natural body temperature of the mouse, dry the mouse then feed to the snake. I personally use feeding tongs, so my snakes recognise tongs as food and not fingers.
All snakes are individual, their requirements may differ slightly. For example the amount of food they consume, and time between each feed.
Hatchlings I usually feed 1 pinkie every 4-5 days. Gradually increasing to two every 4-5 days. When they can easily take 3 at each feed, I move the snake up to the next size mouse.
Rodents
Please note all my frozen mice are produced specifically for reptiles. Special care is taken with their feeding so they don’t cause long term effects on your snake
Information
There are many good books available, and you can also ask tips and advise from breeders and keepers. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any queries or questions.
